gutmann



No. 624,793.- Patented May 9, I899. J. GUTMANN, E. FALLER & 'K. MISCHKE. BUTTONHOLE sewme' MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 81, 1897.) (No ModeL, I V 5 Shaets-snaet I.

'm nu 'nWI No. 624,793. Patented May 9, 1899.. J. GUTMANN, E. FALLEB & K. MISCHKE. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Apnlic ation filed Aug. 31, 1697.) (No Model.) 5Sheats-Shaai 2.

Wiwemes:

No. 624,793. Paiented May 9, I899.

J. GUTMANN, E. FALLER & K. MISDHKE. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 31, 1897A {No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

W'z'nesses: B17672 5011 No. 624,793. Patented May 9, I899. J. sum/mu, E. FALLER & K. mscuKE.

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 31, 1897.)

(N0 Model.)

No. 624,793. Patented May 9, I899.

J. GUTMANN, E. FALLER & K. MISCHKE;

BUTTONHOLE sswme MACHINE. V

(Application filed Aug. 3 1, 1897.) (No Model.) 5 Shoots-Meat 5.

Witnesses: [a wen/l0 WW M JULIUS GUTMANN, OF BERLIN, GERMANY, AND EMIL FAIJIIER AND KARL MISCIIKE, OF ZURICH, SWITZERLAND, ASSIGNORS TO THE FIRMA FABRIK FUR SPEZIALNA-I-IMASCl-IINEN ACTIEN-GESELLSCHAFT, (PATENTE JULIUS GUTMANN,) OF ZURICH, SWITZERLAND.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 624,'793, dated May 9, 1899. Application filed August 31,1897. Serial No 650,163. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JULIUS GUTMANN, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Berlin, Germany, and EMIL FALLER, a citizen of the Republic of Switzerland,and KARL MISCHKE, asubject of the Emperor of Austria- Hungary, both residing at Zurich, Switzerland, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines; and we do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being bad to the ac The invention has for its object certain improvements in the type of sewing-machines referred to, and particularly in the machines of the construction shown in our application for patent of the United States, filed August 31, 1897, Serial No. 650,162, and Letters Patent of Julius Gutmann, dated November 29, 1898, No. 615,165. In the machines shown and described in said application and patent the progressive or feed motion lengthwise of the buttonhole is imparted to the work-holder from the eccentric portion of a cam-groove in the feed-wheel through a pin projecting into said groove and through a lever or a system of levers connected with a slide with which the work-holder has motion crosswise of the buttonhole and independent motion lengthwise thereof.

In binding a buttonhole edge the workholder is positively guided in the slide with which it has motion crosswise of the buttonhole. Practical experience has, however, shown that in barring the ends of a buttonhole the work-holder is liable to be displacedin one or the other direction, and although NITED STATES groove to reciprocate in said wider portion.

PATENT OFFICE.

excellent results are obtained the deviation of the work-holder in one or the other direction from a perfectly straight line during its progressive motion crosswise of the buttonhole has for its result a certain unevenness in the barring-stitches in that they are not laid absolutely parallel with one another. One of the objects of this invention is to obviate this defect, although slight and for many purposes-as,. for instance, for the coarser class ofwork-practically immaterial, yet of importance in finer classes of work,and cause the barring-stitchesoto be laid absolutely parallel with one another, and consequently give to the buttonhole a better finish. The further object of this part of our invention is to materially simplify the appliances which transmit to the work-holder its progressive or feed motion length wise of the buttonhole.

In our application for patent, Serial No. 650,162, with a view to dispensing with coupling devices for coupling the work-holder to the feed-wheel during the progressive motion of said work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole and uncoupling the same from said feedwheel duringits progressive motion crosswise of said buttonhole and While being reciprocated lengthwise thereof, we have shown and I described said feed-wheel as provided with a sliding'piece or plate in which is formed a cam-groove corresponding with that in the feed-wheel, so that during the reciprocations of the work-holder the said sliding plate can reciprocate with said work-holder, the concentric portions of the feed-wheel groove being made sufficiently wide to allow the pin that connects the work-holder with said This arrangement invo1ves,,however, structural complications, irrespective of the additional power required to move the sliding plate; and the further object of this invention is to dispense with said plate, as well as with the coupling and uncoupling appliances, whereby'the mechanism is materially simplified and the cost of construction, as well as the motive power required, reduced? In our The further object of this invention is to so arrange the connection between said slide and the feed-wheel as to admit of the adjustment or variation in the extent of the feed motion. This is of great importance, in that we are enabled thereby to increase or diminish the distance between the edges of the buttonhole,as may be required, and thereby prevent the sewing together of saidedges when long binding-stitches are formed or the overlappi-ng'of such edges.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a sectional side view of a sewing-machine having a vertically reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar and needle embodying our improvements. Fig. 2 is a top plan view thereof, the overhanging machine-arm being removed and the various movementsof the work-holder indicated by arrows numbered from I to V. Figs. 3 and .4 are under side views of the machine, the feed wheel being removed in Fig. 4; and Fig. 5 is a plan view of the feed-wheel detached.

As shown in Figs. land 2, the work holder holds the work with the buttonhole lengthwise of the bed-plate, the needle-bar in binding a buttonhole edge vibrating crosswise of the buttonhole, while said work-holder receives a progressive motion lengthwise of said buttonholeas, for instance, in the direction of arrow I, Fig. 2-from one of the eccentric portions of the heart-shaped groove in the feed wheel, whereby the usual bindingstitches are formed. When the work-holder reaches the limit of its progressive motion in the direction of arrow I, the vibration of the needle-bar is stopped. The work-holder receives a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, ar-row V, Fig. 2, and simultaneously therewith a progressive feed motion crosswise of the buttonhole, arrow II, Fig. 2, whereby the left end of the buttonhole is barred by stitches laid as hereinbefore described, the pin which transmits motion to the work-holder lengthwise of the buttonhole in binding lying during the barring operation in one of the concentric portions of the heartshaped groove in the feed-wheel. When one end of the buttonhole is barred, the abovedescribed operations for binding the opposite edge are repeated, the work-holder receiving, however, a progressive motion in a direction the reverse of that indicated by arrow I or in the direction of arrow III, Fig. 2. When the second edge of the buttonhole is bound, the operation of barring is repeated, and here also the direction of the progressive motion of the work-holder indicated by arrow II is reversed, as indicated by arrow IV in said Fig. 2, the parts having returned to the start ing-point.

In Figs. 1 to 4, G indicates the bed-plate; A, the overhanging machine-arm; N, the needle-bar; N, the needle; -N the vibrating needle-bar frame; w, the main driving or crank shaft; 10, the parallel crank shaft geared to said main shaft,said shaft 10 imparting the vibratory movements to the needle-bar frame N and said main crank-shaft thevertically-reciprocating movements to the said needle-bar. The shaft w carries two cam-grooved sleeves af The former, a, im-

parts the required reciprocating movements to the pawl-lever a and the latter a progressive movement to the feed-wheel c through the mediumof a system of levers a a and the guide bar a to which the pawl-lever a is pivoted, the

pawl a of which lever is held in engagement with the ratchet-teeth of the feed-wheel by a spring a. From the aforesaid cam-grooved sleeve f on shaft 10, and as shown and described in the Gutmann "patent hereinbefore referred to, the work-holder receives the required reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole in barring an end thereof through a leverf link f, leverf, and a pin 6 lifted periodically by projections c on the upper face of the feed-wheel 0 through a longitudinal slot in lever f, arranged transversely of the bed-plate, into one or the other of two transverse slots 01 d 'in a plate (1, secured to the work-holder slide 01 the slot 01 being formed in a separate plate (13-, adjustable toward and from slot d according-to the length of the buttonhole to be sewed, Fig. 2, said slots (1 (Z being of sufficient length to admit of the progressive motion of the work-holder crosswise of the buttonhole. (See also Fig. 1.) The engagement of the pin 6 with one or the other of the two slots 61 d takes place immediatel y after a'buttonhole edge is bound and the bar c has locked the needle-baragainst vibration to reciprocate the work holder lengthwise of the buttonhole in the formation of the barring-stitches, while the needle-bar reciprocates only, the projections 6 diametrically opposite each other on the upper face of the feed-wheel 0 being so arranged relatively to the cam-groove in its upper face, Fig. 5, that when the roller on pin 1) passes from an eccentric portion of said cam-groove into wider concentric portions, either 0 or 0 at which time the stop-bar e locks the needie-bar against vibration,one of the aforesaid projections moves under pin 6 and lifts the same through the slot of lever f into engagement with one'or the other of the two slots 01 (1, above referred to, according to the edge of the buttonhole to be bound, thereby imparting to the work-holder the reciprocatory motion necessary to the formation of the barring-stitches.

The needle-bar is held against vibration in barring a buttonhole end bya stop-bar 6 actuated periodically from a lever 6 connected with a lever e on the under side of the bedplate G, which lever c carries a roller 6- in the path of projections c on the feed-wheel h, (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3 and in full lines in Fig. 5,) whereby the wedge-shaped stop 6 at the end of said bar is moved into engagement with the needle-bar frame N to stop its vibrations.

The mechanism for actuating the needlebar for stopping its vibrations, for actuating the feed-wheel, for reciprocating the workholder lengthwise of the buttonhole, and for imparting the progressive movements to the work-holder are in substance the same as the corresponding mechanisms shown and described in the aforesaid application and patent, with the exception of the mechanism which transmits to the work-holder the progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole and hereinafter described.

The work-holder D is constructed substantially as shown in our application for patent SerialNo. 650,162, and consists of a slide 61 to which the work-clamp is hinged and held to the work by a coiled spring. The slide d has motion lengthwise of the buttonhole and bedplate G in suitable ways cl 011 a slide it, having motion crosswise of said buttonhole and bed-plate on the under side of the latter, and said slide d has a stud or pin b projecting from its under side through a longitudinal slot in slide 71. so that slide its is adapted to move lengthwise of the bed-plate independently of slide h -and crosswise of the bed plate with said slide 7%. To the stud or pin b on slide is pivoted one end of a link h, whose other end is pivoted to a lug D on the upper lever 12 of a pair of super posed and longitudinally-slotted leversb and b ",arti'culated together by a binding-screw .9 said levers h Z1 being pivoted at diametrically opposite points 10 and 12, respectively, to the under side of the bed-plate. To a lug projecting from the lower lever b near its free end, is pivoted one end of a link b whose opposite end is pivoted to the short arm of an angle-lever b likewise fulcrumed to the under side of the bed-plate at I), to which is secured the pin Z), carrying a roller that projects into the cam-groove c in the upper face of the feed-wheel 0 as shown in dotted-lines 'in Fig. 3, through the medium of one half of which groove the work-holder D receives its progressive movement in one direction and through the other half in an opposite direction lengthwise of the buttonhole in binding the edges thereof. The two levers h Z2 being adjustably connected by means of the binding-screw the amplitude of the progressive feed movement can be regulated in accordance with the length of the buttonhole to be bound by shifting the point of connection toward or from the free ends ofthe levers to lengthen or shorten the lower lever b as' referred to, from a straight line during its progressive motion crosswise of. the buttonhole are avoided in that although the link I) follows the movement of said slide (Z tending to displace the same lengthwise of the bed-plate, this is not the case, because said displacement of the link I) is compensated at Z9 by the reciprocal motion of the levers b b, which follow the movements of link (9 as will be readily understood.

.The progressive motion crosswise of the bed-plate and buttonhole is imparted to the work-holder slide d by means of mechanism substantially as described and shown in our application for patent before referred to, the difference being in that the pin it, from which said motion is transmitted to said cross-slide, is not secured thereto in order to admit of varying the amplitude of said progressive motion, as hereinabove stated.

on its inner face with the recesses 0 c at diametrically opposite points. 9 g are the springs that act upon the lower slide h and tend to move the same in one direction crosswise of the bed-plate and buttonhole, arrow II, Fig. 2, and h is the pin, which carries a roller from which the progressive motion is imparted to said slide it in the opposite direction crosswise of the bed-plate and buttonhole, arrow IV, Fig. 2. Hence when the feedwheel 0 and roller h are in the position shown in Fig. 3 the slide 71. will be gradually moved against the stress of its springs g as one of the inclines 13 moves along the roller h from cc to 0c, the feed-wheel 0 moving progressively in the direction of arrow Fig. 3. While, on the contrary, the other incline 13 moves along the roller h from m to 00, the springs g gradually move the said slide 7L4 in an opposite direction.

The pin it instead of being secured to the slide it, as shown and described in the application and patent hereinabove referred to, is secured to the free end of a segmental lever 7,2 pivoted at h to the under side of the bedc Fig. 5, is the circular flange on the feed-wheel 0 provided ICC plate. The said lever 7Z has a segmental slot 7r, having for center the axis of rotation of a lever 71, pivoted to slide 7L4, in which segmental slot said lever 7L7 is adjustable by means of a binding-screw h", as shown in Fig. 4, whereby the extent of the feed motion crosswise of the buttonhole can be varied within certain limits.

In order to avoid structural complications and to reduce the number of parts, as well as the powerrequired to operate the machine, we have made a further improvement whereby the devices employed in the machines described and shown in the application and patent above referred to and through the medium of which the free reciprocation of the work-holder slide 01 can take place are dispensed with in thatwe widen theconcentric portions 0 0 of theheart-shaped groove 0 in the upper face of the feed-wheel 0 ,1 5

5, to admit of the said reciprocations of work-holder slide 01 in barring the ends of a buttonhole, said wider portions of the groove being of course so located relatively to the eccentric portions of said groove and rela tively to the recessed portions 0 0 of the inner face of the flange 0 that as'soon as one edge of a buttonhole is bound the proper feed motion crosswise of the bed-plate and buttonhole may be imparted to the slide 7L4, as above described, and during this feed motion the work-holderD is reciprocated lengthwise of the bed-plate by mechanism already fully described. 1

Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a buttonhole-sewing machine such as described, the combination with the stitch forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle-banthe work-holder,

mechanism for periodically imparting thereto a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, and means forstoppin g the vibration of the needle-bar during said reciprocation of the work-holder; of a progressively-revolving feed-wheel provided with a cam-groove c having portions 0 wider than the remaining 1 portions and intermediate mechanism connected with the work-holder, one of the ele ments of said mechanism provided with a pin projecting into the aforesaid cam-groove, for

the purposes set forth.

2. In a buttonhole-sewing machine such as described, the combination with the workholder and the stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar; of a progessively-revolving feed-wheel provided with a suitably-shaped feed-groove,

the superposed connected levers I2 I), the bell-crank lever b having secured thereto a pin b projecting into the aforesaid feed-l groove, and connected with lever 1) near its 1 free end, and the link I) connecting lever Z) with the work-holder, substantially as and: for the purpose set forth. 1

3. The combination with the stitch-forming j appliances comprising a reciprocating and, vibrating needle-bar, the feed-wheel provided with a cam-groove a having portions 0 0 wider than the remaining portions; of the work-holder slide 01 mechanism for periodically reciprocating the same lengthwise of the 1 buttonhole, means for stopping the vibrations of the needle-bar during said reciprocation of the work-holder, the spring-actuated slide h connected with said work-holder slide as described, means cooperating with the feedwheel for periodically imparting to slide 7L a progressive motion crosswise ,of the buttonhole when slide at? reciprocates lengthwise thereof, the superposed connected levers 19 12 said lever 11 connected by link with slide 6F, and the bell-crank lever b linked to lever b said lever b provided with a pin projecting into the cam-groove of the aforesaid feedwheel, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. In a buttonhole-sewing machine such as described, the combination with the workholder and the stitch-forming devices com= prising a reciprocating and vibrating needlebar; of a progressively-revolving feed-wheel provided with a suitably-shaped feed-groove, the superposed longitudinally-slotted and adj ustably-conn ected levers b 11 the bell-crank lever b having secured thereto a pin b projectin g into the aforesaid feed-groove and connected with lever Z2 near its free end, and

the link b connecting lever Z9 with the workholder, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

5. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needle-bar, the work-holder, means for periodically reciprocating the latter and means for simultaneously stopping the vibration of the needle-bar, of the spring-actuated cross-slide 7L connected with said Work-holder, and the feed-wheel c? provided with a circular flange having recesses c c" in its inner face; of the lever h carrying a pin in contact with the inner face of the aforesaid flange, and the lever 71 connecting lever h with the aforesaid crossslide, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

6. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming appliances comprising a reciprocating and vibrating needie-bar, the work-holder, means for periodically reciprocating the latter, and means for simultaneously stopping the vibration of the needle-bar, of the spring-actuated cross-slide h connected with said work-holder, and the feed-wheel 0 provided with a circular flange having recesses c c in its inner face; of the lever 77, carrying a pin in contact with the inner face of the aforesaid flange, and the lever 77 adj ustably connected with the lever 71 and connecting the latter with cross-slide 7Z4, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

In witness whereof we have hereto signed ournames in the presence of the subscribing witnesses.

JULIUS GUTMANN. EMIL FALLER. KARL MISOHKE. Witnesses to signature of Julius Gutmann:

W. I'IAUPT, HENRY HASPER. Witnesses to signatures of Emil Faller and Karl Mischke:

H. RABBARD, Monrrz VEITH. 

